We dug a little deeper. This product line has been making headlines for the past month, mainly due to user success stories. In the U.S. Sun, a dermatologist recommended it for winter skin (which is now happening for those of us in the northern hemisphere). There were also two stories, in PA Real life and the Independent, about a former Met police officer who used the product as a “miracle cure” for stress-induced skin eruptions. The Daily mail additionally profiled a woman whose rosacea was so bad she was teased and told she needed plastic surgery. There were several other headlines.
See related: Fractional RF Microneedling for Hard-to-Treat Rosacea
So what’s special about these products? The Kalme line is for red and reactive skin care. It comes from the Skin Shop company, which was previously owned by L’Oréal and was sold to Natura in 2017. The products are designed for rosacea, redness and sensitivity, said to “reduce reactivity, redness, bumpiness and dryness.”
The range consists of: a day cream with SPF 25; a restorative night cream; an anhydrous cream cleanser (because, according to the company, water evaporating on the skin causes it to dry out more quickly); a “chameleon” concealer; a TEQ serum; an “undercoat” (containing a desensitizing tetrapeptide); and then basic skincare and complete skincare kits.
While the news stories didn’t say which products in particular were responsible for the effects, there were a few with interesting ingredients worth mentioning.
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Caper Extract, Idinyl, Perilla Seed and NDGA
The Calm Day Cream with SPF 25 is a mineral sunscreen with the caper extract Derma Sensitive, which appears to be the Gatuline Derma-Sensitive ingredient (INCI: Octyldodecyl Myristate) Spinosa capers fruit extract) from Gattefossé. According to the supplier, this oily caper bud extract is designed to reduce inflammation and soothe sensitive skin. It was created using gemmotherapy to capture “highly energetic substances in embryonic plant tissues and seeds.”
Notably, the caper extract is also contained in the Calm Night Repair Cream, which additionally contains the moisturizing cream idinyl and the antibacterial/anti-inflammatory perilla seed, and the “chameleon” concealer, which also uses skin-tone matching technology to conceal redness. It is claimed that the product is green in color but changes to the natural shade of the skin.
Coming back to the Kalme day cream with SPF 25, the product additionally contains the patented antioxidant nordihydroguaiaretic acid (NDGA), which we have searched for and described in Medical Science Monitor by researchers at Bayor College of Medicine, Houston, as being derived from creosote bush , also known as Trident meadowchaparral or greasewood, which is said to be 100x more effective than vitamins C, E or grapeseed at reducing inflammation, bumps and blemishes.
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Agave, inulin and vegetable squalane
The Calm TeQ Serum is designed as a moisturizing and restorative formula with two agave extracts. One is Mexican agave, which is used to make tequila (presumably from where the TeQ in the product name derives). This ingredient is described as a powerful prebiotic used to ward off Bacillus oleronius bacteria, which is associated with rosacea.
The product also contains the ingredient PreBIULIN AGA (INCI: Inulin), which is apparently from Ultra Chemical and is said to be more hydrating than Hyaluronic Acid. Blue agave is also added to boost inulin, as well as vegetable squalene.
Wrap-up and disclosure of ingredients
So as this week’s Google Trends search reveals, the most popular search on Calm Skin Care indicates that consumers are interested in rosacea and sensitive skin care. Keep an eye out for next week’s report here and on social media.
Ingredients: Calm Day Defense Cream SPF 25: Aquazinc oxide (nano), caprylic/capric triglyceride, glycerin, dicaprylyl carbonate, squalane, butylene glycol, glyceryl stearate, octyldodecanol, cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth-20, octyldodecyl myristate, Ocymoid button (Perilla) Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid, Cassia angustifolia extract, glycyrrhetinic acid (liquorice extract), Spinosa capers (Caper) Bud extract, xanthan gum, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, citric acid, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol. (Remember US$30.73)
Ingredients: Calm Night Repair Cream: Aquadicaprylyl carbonate, glyceryl stearate, butylene glycol, cetearyl alcohol, octyldodecyl myristate, Spinosa capers fruit extract, Ocymoid button (Perilla) Seed Oil, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Myristyl Myristate, Ceteareth-20, Damask rose (Roses) Flower Water, Cera Alba (beeswax), dimethicone, ethylhexylglycerin, ceteareth-12, cetyl palmitate, sodium polyacrylate, tocopheryl acetate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, allantoin, panthanol, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol. (Remember US$30.73)
Ingredients: Calm Cream Cleanser: Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Sweet Prunus (sweet almond) oil, dimethicone, phenoxyethanol, panthenol (provitamin B5), sodium polyacrylate, xanthan gum, ethylhexylgerine, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1, 3-diol. (Remember US$22.33)
Ingredients: Calm Chameleon Concealer: Aqua (Water), Cyclopentasiloxane, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Butylene Glycol, Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyldimethicone, Diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone, Aluminum Hydroxide, Dimethicone, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Hydrogen Dimethicone, Sodium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Mannitol, Silicon Dioxide, Inulin, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Helianthus Annuus Seed oil unsaponifiable, Spinosa capers (Caper) Fruit Extract, Hexyl Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4-Isostearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Shellac, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Mica, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tetrasodium EDTA, CI 77891, CI 77492, CI 77491, CI 77120, CI 19140, CI 77499, CI 42090. (Ret US$30.73)
Ingredients: Calm TEQ Serum: Squalane, Inulin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Agave tequilana Stem extract, tocopherol. (Remember US$25.13)
Ingredients: Calm Undercoat: Aqua (Water), dicaprylyl carbonate, betaine, butylene glycol, ceteareth-20, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, sodium polyacrylate, phenoxyethanol, mannitol, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1, 3-diol, ethylhexylglycerin, sodium citrate, acetyltetrapeptide-15. (Remember US$15.33)